MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA : FALL-WINTER 2010/11 MEN’S COLLECTION

Mar
28/10

Written by Esguerra
Sunday, 28 March 2010

The set: a black & white photography of a seated audience is the starting point of the collection, where graphic elements and textures give life to an almost monochromatic color palette.

The presentation: a large room in which models introduce the 26 silhouettes of the Fall/Winter collection among guests sitting at small squared tables, as an extension of the set.

The collection: the abstraction of a black & white photography. Endless variations of printed or plain black, white and grey reveal different brightness and textures. An X-ray of stripes, checks or dots playing with black, white and grey in positive and negative. Mixing graphic elements give subtle results with a laser perforated micro dots wool, or, blatant contrast between a shiny nappa leather and a rich grey flannel. Mat printed pebble-like dots or torn-paper-like stripes soften the light of black leather, metal studs, iridescent Prince-of-Wales wool, irregularly-checked silk or an embroidery of brass fastener. A wool flannel jacket in irregular grey mélange is like a dégradé of partially corrugated metal. Micro dots of shiny translucent sequins embroidered on a pair of jeans or a fronted shirt or waistcoat embroidered with leather dots on plastic pistils add texture to geometry. The collar and the belt of a tuxedo show a folding ribbon as sole graphic element.

The silhouette: lean yet soft.
A new round shoulder is as comfortable as a cardigan, yet looks like any sharp tailoring.
Natural waisted-pants and Haramaki tube belts make the contour slender.

Jackets, sweaters, cardigans, t-shirts and scarves worn inside trousers are another take on stretching the silhouette.
The same cut of a jacket with the new round shoulder projects a different allure when chosen among the extra slim fit, the slim fit or the loose fit.

The lines: The Fall/Winter presentation is a combination of pieces from line ’10’ (The collection for men), line ’14’ (A wardrobe for men, mixing timeless elegant, sartorial and sportswear classics), the Replica capsule, line ‘0’ (Collection Artisanale), line ‘22’ (A collection of shoes) and line ‘11’ (A collection of accessories).